By Meg Brazill

What is it about a good paint job that can turn a nice room into an outstanding one? How hard is it to paint like a professional? If you’ve been mulling over questions like these, you’re ready to trade in your thinking cap for your paint cap, and to start rolling.

No Shortcuts

Paint pros will tell you that there are no shortcuts if you want good results. Plan to spend two to four days to paint an average size room, from start to finish. Lots of windows, heavily marred walls, or fancy trim will increase the time needed. If you’re methodical about the process, you’ll be pleased with the results and come away better prepared for your next paint challenge.

It’s Roundup Time

Painters agree that rule number one is removing everything moveable from the room, including switch plates, paintings, hardware and light fixtures. Avoid the temptation to leave your favorite (but, heavy) easy chair in the room. A drop cloth won’t provide adequate protection from a paint spill or from drywall dust when you’re sanding. Rule of thumb: if there’s anything you don’t want to get paint on, take it out of the room.

Gearing Up

Next, gather up the tools needed for prep and painting. Here’s a shortlist of recommended items: drop cloths; dust masks; paint brushes, paint roller, paint pan, and pail; caulking gun; lightweight spackle; masking tape; pole sander; sandpaper; screwdrivers; utility knife, window scraper, and razor blades.

Use high-quality drop cloths, such as canvas or six mil. plastic. Don’t recycle old linens as drop cloths. Paint can easily soak through fabrics, leaving problem spills and spatters on the carpets. You can use rosin paper to cover wood floors; masking tape will secure the seams and edges.

…any painter worth his salt will tell you that the key to a beautiful paint job is preparation. Any time spent improving the surface to be painted will pay off in big dividends of ooohs and ahhhs.

Preparation, Preparation, Preparation

Like the realtor’s mantra of “location,” any painter worth his salt will tell you that the key to a beautiful paint job is preparation. Any time spent improving the surface to be painted will pay off in big dividends of ooohs and ahhhs. Expect to spend as much time in prep work as you do in painting. Preparation comes down to painting by the numbers, step by step.

Step 1: Clean the walls and woodwork. Vacuum the room thoroughly and use household cleaner to wipe down any dirty woodwork or walls.

Step 2: Use a putty knife to apply lightweight spackle to fill cracks and holes in drywall; plaster of Paris can be used on deeper dents. Use wood filler, not spackle, for repairs on wood.

Step 3: Sand the trim, doors and windows. Invest in a few dust masks to spare your lungs from the dry dust of sanding.

Sanding “feathers” out chipped paint and provides a lightly sanded surface to which the new paint will better adhere. A 120-grit sandpaper is good for sanding woodwork: trim, doors and windows. For glossy trim, use a sanding sponge which will mold to the shape of the trim. If you’re unsure of the content of the original paint, make sure it is completely deglossed by thorough sanding. When latex is used on previously oil-painted trim, the paint can start peeling long before it should.

Some painters use masking tape to create a clean paint edge; others prefer to create the edge with a brush (cutting in). If you use tape, get the good stuff – blue, 1H in., “painters tape.” (Cutting in means painting just one surface and not the one next to it – such as where a wall meets the ceiling.)

Step 4: Use a pole sander (a sander attached to a pole) to smooth any repairs or bumps. Use it for sanding joint compound on new drywall.

Step 5: Break out the caulk gun to fill gaps between the woodwork and walls, using a paintable acrylic-latex caulk. This creates a professional looking, sharply defined line between the walls, trim and ceiling.

Step 6: Painting over dust will result in textured walls; for a smooth finish, treat your walls to a sponge bath. Use a second bucket of clean water for rinsing the sponge as you go.

Step 7: Picking the paint. Paint must be high-quality and its price will reflect that – don’t compromise on it. Ditto for the primer. Latex paints are generally the paint of choice for interior walls. Glossy latex is usually more stain-resistant and easier to clean, but imperfections in the paint job are more visible. Whatever paint you choose, you’ll need two coats to achieve a great looking result. Keep 1/4 gallon for future touch ups.

Step 8: Get a good paint roller. Rollers are characterized by their “nap;” a longer nap holds more paint, but the longer it is, the more texture it will put on the walls – not necessarily a desirable effect. Look for a H-inch nap roller. Use a thicker nap for walls that are textured or have unusual characteristics. The roller of choice is 9 inches wide.

Step 9: A telescoping extension pole is great, but a metal tipped five-foot wooden pole does the job nicely too. Use one with a roller to paint ceilings, floors and walls more quickly, without climbing up and down ladders.

Step 10: A high-quality paintbrush applies paint more smoothly and is more comfortable to use than a cheap one – and it will last for years if properly cared for. Buy synthetic-bristle brushes for all-around use (except for enamel paint). A 21/2 or 3-inch good quality brush (read $18 or more per brush), with an angled cut is recommended. Pick up some “throwaway” foam brushes for touch-ups.

Painting!

With the prep work completed, it’s time to start painting. When using a brush, dip it about
1H inches into the paint, then tap each side of it against the side of the can. This helps to push the paint into the bristles where you want it. For painting trim or situations where less paint on the brush is needed, you can also scrape the brush against the can.

Cutting in around trim with a paint brush takes some practice. With a good roller however, you can paint within 1/2-inch of the ceiling; from there you can cut in with a brush. The roller/brush combination will help avoid creating a smooth band that can show up near the ceiling.

When using the roller attached to a paint pole, roll with long overlapping strokes from ceiling to floor. This will smooth out any buildup of paint that the roller leaves. Start from the top and work your way down. Paint the trim last. To avoid dripping, keep your brush or roller moving.

Check your work. You may need to sand some more before applying the next coat.

Clean-up

If you’re painting again the next day, don’t bother to clean your brushes and rollers. Wrap them in plastic (wrap or grocery bags) and put them in the refrigerator. Return the roller and brush to room temperature before using them again.

Use water to rinse out all the paint up to the top of the bristles – until the water runs clear – and hang the brush to dry. Go the extra mile – wrap the bristles in a bit of brown bag paper, and secure it with a rubber band around the metal of the brush handle. Store your brush flat or hang it up.

Rinse the roller thoroughly and let it dry completely. If the nap is still good, you can save it for future use. Painters recommend buying new rollers for each job.

Grand Finale

Congratulations. It’s time to stand back and admire your handiwork.