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By Jay Thompson
When asked to describe a well, most city folks will
conjure up an image of a hole in the ground,
surrounded by a stonewall and covered with a roof,
with a bucket and pulley arrangement to bring up the
water. To the rural homeowner who does not have the
luxury of a connection to the city water department,
a well is as important as the walls and roof of the
house.
In order to understand how a well works, you have to
understand how water gets in the ground in the first
place. The technical term for well water is ground
water. This is simply rain water and snow melt that
has seeped into the ground instead of running off
into a stream or a river. This water will continue
to flow downward until it hits bedrock and it cannot
go any farther. The earth above the bedrock will
become saturated and the top of this saturated layer
is called the water table. A well is a shaft that
cuts through the soil all the way down to the water
ta
ble in order to access ground water.
There are three types of wells – dug wells, driven
wells and drilled wells. A dug well is simply a hole
in the ground sunk in the water table either by hand
or using some kind of excavating machine like a
backhoe. The sides of these wells are usually lined
with cement tile, to keep them from collapsing, and
have a gravel base.
A driven well is a series of pipes with a point on
the end that is forced into the ground to the water
table. By their nature both dug and driven wells are
not very deep and are more susceptible to drought
and contamination than drilled wells. However they
work quite well on property where the ground is soft
and where the water t
able is close to the surface.
Homeowners should be aware that there are some
potential problems with wells. The first is the
possibility that the well may dry up. This could
happen because of a lack of rainfall, other wells
tapping into the same aquifer or the homeowner
simply outpacing the water supply.
Most modern wells are drilled wells, sometimes
called artesian wells, which require a fairly
complicated and expensive drill rig. These rigs can
reach sources of water over 1,000 feet in the ground
by using a large auger bit in soft soil or, in the
case of rock, either a rotary drill bit or
percussion bits which smash their way through. The
upper portion of the well shaft is lined with a
casing to prevent it from collapsing and to keep the
well from becoming contaminated with surface runoff.
Because these wells are so deep, they often require
a pump to be placed directly in the well to draw the
water to the surface.
Sometimes the water in the well is under enough
pressure to force it partially or all the way up the
well shaft.
The main advantage of having a well is that once it
is drilled and hooked up
to a house, the water is basically free. And
because well water is naturally filtered by the
surrounding soil, there is often no need to treat it
with chemicals like chlorine. As a result, many
people find well water tastes better then municipal
water. Sometimes having a well on the property can
increase the value of the house.
Homeowners should be aware that there are some
potential problems with wells. The first is the
possibility that the well may dry up. This could
happen because of a lack of rainfall, other wells
tapping into the same aquifer or the homeowner
simply outpacing the water supply. According to the
Empire State Well Drillers Association, the amount
of water needed for a family of four is between
300-600 gallons per day. But you need to take into
account peak demand times and extra guests, so the
amount of water flowing into a well should be around
four to ten gallons per minute.
Another possible problem with wells is contamination
of the water… These substances could be something
relatively minor like iron or sulfur or something
much more serious like radon, arsenic or uranium.
Another possible problem with wells is contamination
of the water. Water is an excellent solvent. As it
moves through layers of rock and soil, it will
dissolve minerals and other substances that will not
necessarily be filtered out by the time the water
reaches the well. These substances could be
something relatively minor like iron or sulfur or
something much more serious like radon, arsenic or
uranium.
Bacteria or other surface pollutants can also get
into the well if surface water runoff flows into it.
Make sure that the well has a secure cover (or cap)
on it, the casing isn’t cracked and it protrudes at
least a foot above ground. Also check that the well
is situated well away from any external source of
pollution. In general, a well should be at least 200
feet away from any garbage dump, landfill or
cesspool; 50 feet away from any septic tank, tile
sewer, leach field or foundation drain; 20 feet away
from roads and 10 feet away from sewer lines.
If a homeowner suspects that his well has become
contaminated with bacteria, the first thing to do is
to get the water tested. This can be done with
either a simple home water quality test kit or by
contacting the appropriate state or county water
quality agency. Twin State homeowners can call The
New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services
at (603) 271-3503 or contact the Vermont Department
of Health Laboratory at (802) 863-7335.
If the well is contaminated with bacteria, clean up
is relatively easy. A simple solution of chlorine
bleach at approximately 1 gallon of bleach for every
100 gallons of water is circulated through the well
and then flushed out through the house’s water
pipes. This will kill any bacteria in the system and
after a few days the water should be safe to drink,
but be sure to test the water first just to be safe.
Check with local water officials for specific
instructions before trying to disinfect a well.
Save Water, Save Money:
Water Conservation Techniques
By Laura Jean Whitcomb
How well is your well? It may not matter this year.
The Northeast has been labeled as a drought area by
the U.S. Drought Monitor, an index developed by
federal and academic scientists. A drought is a
period of abnormally dry weather which persists long
enough to produce a serious hydrologic imbalance
such as crop damage or water supply shortage.
Despite snowmelt over the past several weeks, ground
water levels remain low. Whether on a private well
or linked to public water suppliers, homeowners are
advised to turn off the tap, stop washing cars,
cease watering the grass and take other water
conservation steps.
Conservation efforts are already underway. A report
funded by the Plumbing Manufacturers Institute, the
California Urban Water Conservation Council and the
Water Conservation Coalition of Puget Sound found
that low flush toilet will save residential
customers 2 billion gallons daily by 2010. New York
City has already installed efficient plumbing
fixtures, including the low flush toilet, to reduce
the average daily water consumption from a high of
1.45 billion gallons in 1988 to below 1.2 billion in
1997. Builders and developers are creating
properties that are more water efficient, including
improvements such as low flow showerheads, low flush
toilets, Xeriscape landscaping (a Southwest
landscaping concept that saves water) and, in
multi-housing properties, common area laundry rooms.
And N.H. Governor Jean Shaheen is backing a bill
that requires the state to develop and mandate
conservation measures for new public water supplies.
Homeowners don’t need to wait for legislation or
drought warnings to conserve water. There are some
things you can do at home every day to make sure
your well doesn’t run dry or your water bill doesn’t
reach astronomical proportions. Take a look at these
simple techniques from the Massachusetts Water
Resources Authority to conserve water (and save
money):
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WHAT YOU CAN DO… WHAT YOU SAVE |
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Turn off the tap while brushing your
teeth saves 4 to 10 gallons a day |
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Do not use the toilet as a wastebasket
saves 3 to 7 gallons per flush |
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Take five-minute showers saves 3 to 7
gallons per shower |
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Close tub drain before turning on water
saves 3 gallons or more |
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Fill bathtub only halfway saves 5
gallons or more |
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Fill sink or basin when rinsing or
washing dishes saves 8 to 15 gallons a
day |
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Run dishwasher only when full saves 15
gallons per load |
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Run washing machine only when full saves
22 to 25 gallons per load |
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Run garbage disposal only when necessary
saves 2 to 7 gallons per minute |
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Wash vegetables and fruit using basin
and brush saves 2 to 4 gallons per day |
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Install low flow faucet aerator saves 2
to 7 gallons per minute |
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