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By Laura Jean Whitcomb
It is a tool with many names: pounder, beetle,
mallet, maul, pestle and sledge. But you probably
know it best by its common name –– hammer. A hammer,
a tool designed for delivering repeated blows, is by
far the oldest known tool. The first hammer was a
stone held in a man’s hand. Later, around 4th
century B.C., man used strips of hide or vines to
tie a wooden handle to the rock.
Hammers have adapted to man’s needs over the years.
Wooden-headed hammers, called mallets, were used
when wooden nails were popular. Later, with the
introduction of metal nails, blacksmiths used their
talents to forge steel hammers from red-hot iron. As
modern manufacturing methods developed, the hammer
head changed from stone to bronze to iron to steel
and the metal alloys of today.
According to “History of the Hammer,” written by
Bergen County Technical Schools in New Jersey,
hammers were soon developed for every task
imaginable: cooper hammers for making barrels,
veneer hammers for trimming lumber, wooden mallets
for carpentry, blacksmith hammers, bricklaying
hammers, shoemaker’s hammers, to name a few. Today,
Vaughan and Bushnell Manufacturing, one of the
largest producers of hammers and other hand tools,
produces more than 250 types and sizes for every
conceivable trade and task. There are claw hammers
to nail in and rip out nails; upholsters’ hammers
with a longer claw for hard to reach nails; mallets
and clubs used to pound on objects that would be
damaged if struck with a normal hammer; and riveting
hammers to pound rivets and brads into small spaces.
Anatomy of the Hammer
We’ve all seen one, but could we name its parts?
Vaughan and Bushnell Manufacturing sponsors
www.hammernet.com, a Web site with all the
information you could ever want about hammers.
Here’s how they define the basic parts of a hammer.
The whole package combined is a full-polished hammer
HEAD, complete with Face, Eye, Cheek, Throat, Crown,
Claw, and Handle. The FACE is the striking face, the
place where the job gets done. Top-quality hammers
give you the benefit of 25 percent more face space
than hammers of equivalent weight. That means surer
strikes and easier, faster nail driving. A deep
THROAT on a strong neck allows power strikes even in
difficult areas. This NECK has an octagon-shaped
design. The EYE should be deep and tapered,
providing a secure head-to-handle assembly. The
CHEEKS frame the face. The most effective CLAW
sports double bevels that provide clearance for nail
heads and allow a firm grip on nails of any size.
HANDLES come with different grips. Try them out to
find one that is comfortable for you. Quality wood
handles are usually made of the strongest wood:
hickory. There are also fiberglass and tubular steel
handles with an air cushion grip for comfort and
shock absorption.
Features of Quality Hammers
If you’re in the market for a hammer, spend some
money. “A good hammer costs between $28 and $40,”
says Robert Jackman, general manager of LaValleys in
West Lebanon, N.H. “There are many specialty hammers
that go as high as $70.”
Jackman notes that selecting a hammer is a very
subjective experience. “What is good for one is not
good for all,” he says. “Choose features depending
on your intended use. If you are a homeowner buying
one hammer to do everything, then we recommend a
hammer weighing between 16 and 20 ounces. Most
people should not use more than a 20-ounce hammer ––
the heavier the hammer the harder it is to use for
long periods and the more strain it is on your arm.”
“The first consideration of any guy who knows his
hammer is balance,” says Howard A. Vaughan, Jr.,
president of Vaughan and Bushnell Manufacturing.
“The proper head-to-handle weight distribution is
very important. When a hammer has good balance, it
seems to swing itself. Good balance results in less
stress on muscles and tendons, helping to eliminate
common injuries associated with swinging a hammer.”
Good balance results in less stress on muscles and
tendons, helping to eliminate common injuries
associated with swinging a hammer.
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Other hammer features you should look
for include: |
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Forged steel heads for strength and
durability |
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Heat-treated heads for a durable
striking surface that will not chip or
fragment |
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Finish-ground face that is canted
slightly toward the handle to center
hammer blows. “This is done for more
accurate hitting and prevention of mis-strikes,”
says Frank Burgmeier, spokesperson for
Vaughan and Bushnell Manufacturing. |
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The chamfer or bevel on the striking
face, a safety feature that reduces
chipping |
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Double-beveled nail slot to resist
chip-out when pulling large nails |
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Hickory, solid or tubular steel or
fiberglass handle firmly attached to
head. Jackman warns that novices should
be careful about fiberglass handles.
“While basically unbreakable, they do
tend to transmit a ‘missed impact’ when
you miss your target with the hammer
head and hit it with the shaft of the
handle,” he says. “A wood handle will
absorb most of the impact, and maybe
crack or break. The fiberglass handle
will transfer most of the vibration and
energy to your hand. It is very painful
–– and in some cases can actually break
bones.” |
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Ergonomically shaped and cushioned
handles for secure grip and comfort |
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Warning and use message affixed to the
hammer |
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A brand name is not always important ––
“Brands are like cars; everybody has a
favorite,” says Jackman –– but be sure
to buy a hammer with a guarantee. |
Hammer Safety
According to the experts at Vaughan, a quality
hammer can improve with age. Hammers with forged
steel heads and a precisely heat-tempered face
benefit from the repeated pounding that keeps the
temper in the striking face. The wood handle may
wear out before the head; just replace it with a new
one.
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Here are a few tips to keep your hammer
in top condition: |
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Clean your hammer before storage |
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Use the right hammer for the job ––
don’t make do with a hammer that wasn’t
designed for the work. (And don’t use a
hammer as a pry bar!) |
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Never leave a hammer with a wooden
handle out in the sun |
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Never use a broken hammer. “Replace it
when it breaks, the handle becomes
slippery, or the face is worn (rounded
over),” says Jackman. “If any part on
the hammer becomes broken or cracked
replace it immediately.” |
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“Use safety glasses, and don’t continue
when you are very tired,” says Jackman.
“That’s when accidents happen.” |
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