VERY YEAR IN THE UPPER VALLEY when summer’s balmy temperatures finally arrive, it’s only natural that people’s minds turn to refreshing thoughts of water. Swimming pools are often the first thing that people think of, but they’re often a nuisance to maintain and lack country charm—and, let’s face it, summer in these parts is short. For these reasons—and because the soil in summer is perfect for digging—man-made ponds have long been a popular alternative.

When constructed with care, man-made ponds blend in and enhance the natural environment, and they also offer a plethora of uses that stretch beyond the brief summer season—ice skating, fishing, fire protection, and irrigation to name a few.

While ponds usually require less maintenance than pools, they demand considerable planning. In fact, much of the effort that goes into pond construction occurs before an excavator or backhoe even touches the ground.

“It’s what you don’t have to do that counts ... You don’t want to mow the lawn too close to a pond or use lawn fertilizers too close to a pond.”

Before setting off to design your pond it is important to understand why you want it. A pond’s use not only determines where you place it, but also dictates other elements of its design, such as the height of its banks and the landscaping around it. Often ponds may serve more than one purpose.

Once you have decided on the type of pond you want, you can go about choosing where to put it. It’s best to have several possible locations in case your site of choice does not test well for soil or lacks a good water source. It is important that a pond site contains water-retaining soil, such as clay, and that it lies near an underwater spring, or a stream.

Tim Matson, a pond expert and author of several books on pond construction, suggests locating ponds downhill from houses so that homeowners can glance out their windows and observe the ever-changing face of the water. He also points out that houses situated below dammed ponds are vulnerable to runoff or flooding.

Before beginning construction, check with your local and state governments to see if a permit is required.

Digging a test hole to the proposed depth of the pond will allow you to determine if a site has the proper soil composition. If the soil is good, clear the site in preparation to dig. Many people hire a contractor who owns the proper equipment to do this. Throughout the construction process, make sure your contractor is following the specifications of your design plan.

Essentially there are two types of ponds: excavated ponds, which are created on flat areas; and embankment ponds, designed for sloping terrain. Excavated ponds can be fed by surface runoff, groundwater, or a combination of both. Regardless of its type, whenever possible you should create a natural shape to your pond rather than a perfect oval.

According to Matson, embankment ponds require an earthen or concrete dam “on the downhill side of a slope or stream to hold back the water,” and a basin along the uphill side to trap any sediment that could be carried into the pond by run off. The necessary height of the dam and depth of the basin depends on the slope and depth of the pond.

In Matson’s DVD, The Earth Ponds DVD: Design and Construction, he states that poorly designed spillways for excess water “are one of the most common problems in pond construction.” Spillways are essentially dug-out channels extending from the shore of the pond. Spillways are favored by most pond designers because they are natural looking; and they are generally used for excavated ponds.

Some embankment ponds employ spillways to maintain proper water levels, but most rely on pipe overflows, which are laid into the mound of the dam. While pipe overflows tend to be more conspicuous than spillways, they allow for a greater level of control.

Ultimately, your site will dictate the design of your pond and the type of spillway or pipe overflow it requires.

When it comes to maintaining your pond, you should carefully monitor its inflow and outflow areas as well as the shoreline. If either the inflow and outflow systems clog, the water could spill over the edge and cause erosion.

A buildup of silt and sediment within the pond itself can also lead to problems. After many years, some ponds need to be dug out and cleared of this matter before it displaces the water entirely. If untended to for too long, a pond may dry up, and become a marshy area overridden by plants.

You should also keep your pond clear of too many nutrients and phosphorus to prevent an overgrowth of algae that can make a pond unattractive and unsuitable for swimming. To accomplish this, make an effort every few months or so to clear smaller debris such as decaying leaves.

While experts recognize the necessity of these measures, they usually suggest a laissez-faire approach on a day-to-day and week-to-week basis. According to James Kennedy, landscape architect and wetland specialist from Etna, New Hampshire, “It’s what you don’t have to do that counts… You don’t want to mow the lawn too close to a pond or use lawn fertilizers too close to a pond.”

Kennedy also discourages homeowners from constructing sandy beaches near the pond’s edges. “If you want a pristine environment to swim,” he concluded, “build a swimming pool.”

Before you go that route, however, make sure you’re ready to maintain the pool. Otherwise you’ll end up with a pond after all—a pond that won’t blend in with, or become a part of, the natural ecosystem—a pond you won’t be able to use throughout the year.